A Journey through the Danube Steppe in Three Stops

Bulgarian sicklebush—a plant with a name that sounds like an old folk song and a presence you won’t soon forget. It grows quietly yet proudly here among the Danubian grasses, reminding us that beauty is often found in the subtle.

Sometimes the best places are the ones no one talks about. You won’t find them in glossy brochures, and they don’t top travel rankings. But when you arrive, you know: you’re exactly where you need to be.

That’s how we ended up heading north—east of Belene and the Persina Nature Park—into some of the quietest, most beautiful corners along the Danube. A place where the wind rustles through steppe grasses, the air smells of elderflower, and the horizon feels in no rush to end.

We left the main road with open eyes and open hearts. What we found were people and places we won’t soon forget. We’d like to introduce a few of them: hosts who have turned their love for nature into a path worth walking (or sailing!).

First stop: Tsarevets – where nature and hospitality feel personal

Walking among the fine-leaved peonies with Snezhana feels like stepping into a green fairytale. She knows where to find the rarest blooms—and when to be quiet, when to speak with wonder.

Our journey begins in the village of Tsarevets, where we’re welcomed by Snezhana and her husband, Kostadin—hosts with big hearts, thoughtful minds, and deep respect for every blade of grass around their lovingly restored home. The garden blooms with elderflower, apple trees grow alongside wild roses and cherries, and their curious Labrador, Maya, follows every move with a playful glint in her eye.

Snezhana is a retired agronomist and organic farmer, but also much more—a conservationist, storyteller, and guide to a world where people live in harmony with nature. Together with Kostadin, she runs “Journeys through the Danubian Steppes,” an initiative that reveals the fragile beauty of this rare and endangered habitat.

Here, you’ll learn to recognize plants with names straight out of a fairy tale—swollen-podded vetch, yellowwort, heartsease, Bulgarian sicklebush. You’ll discover what “steppe layering” means, how grasses can grow taller than people, and what kinds of animals live hidden in the loess hills. And maybe, as dusk settles over Tsarevets, you’ll notice yourself speaking more softly.

Not because you are tired, but out of respect.

Snezhana and Kostadin’s yard is more than just space—it’s a stage for good talks, tents under the apple trees, playful moments with Maya, and that peaceful feeling that there’s really nowhere else you’d rather be.

 

Snezhana and Kostadin’s guesthouse in the village of Tsarevets is one of those rare places where everything feels just right—the wooden beams, the light spilling through the shutters, the potted flowers on the steps, and the warmth that comes not just from the sun.

Second stop: Svishtov – between rivers and town lights

“You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy a kayak—and that’s pretty close.” That’s a favorite meme on the Facebook page of Kayak Club – Svishtov.

Kayak Club – Svishtov brings together people who move with the rhythm of the river. You don’t need credentials—just a paddle, good energy, and a wish to be part of something vibrant and real.

We drive across open fields until we reach the banks of the Danube, where Radostlav Yordanov greets us. He’s the founder of the club, a marketing professor, and someone with boundless energy and the kind of imagination that turns ideas into real-life adventures. The club also led him to Maria, his now inseparable partner in kayaking—and in cultural events from Ruse to Sofia. Maria often joins as a tour photographer, capturing not just images but the heartbeat of the river.

Here, where the Danube meets the Yantra, we explore the Vardim Islands—affectionately called the “Danubian Maldives” by locals. Fine sand and crystal-clear water, and, if you’re lucky, a glimpse of a beaver at work. Tours can be one or two days long. We leave sun-kissed and content, cameras full, and hearts even fuller.

Maria was the first to buy a season pass—and also the first to capture Radostlav’s heart. Ever since, they’ve been inseparable—on the river, behind the camera, and in life.

New friendships take shape around shared paddles and evening meals, often in the company of Snezhana and Kostadin. This is how local projects begin to connect, evolve, and grow—like the steppes themselves.

Some itineraries also include walking tours through Svishtov, with a stop at the Holy Trinity Church—a Revival-era architectural gem built by Kolyo Ficheto. Graceful and timeless, it’s one of the town’s quiet masterpieces.

The islands of the Danube are never the same—sometimes wild, sometimes welcoming, always shifting. A kayak lets you approach them closely, feel their textures, and experience them with every sense.

 

There are moments when the flow of water and your own breath move as one. The paddle dips effortlessly, and your thoughts begin to settle. This isn’t just a sport—it’s a way back to yourself.

Third stop: Belyanovo – home of Byala Zvezda

Belyanovo isn’t just a village—it’s an embrace. Tucked along a curve in the Yantra River, just before it joins the Danube, this place breathes green and sounds like a soft conversation by the fire. It’s also home to one of the hidden treasures of the Danube region: the guesthouse of Byala Zvezda Tours, the first of its kind in the municipality of Tsenovo.

If you’re picturing a journey that begins with a boat—you’re on the right track. The original Byala Zvezda (“White Star”) was a sailboat built by Yavor and his teenage friends. The name stayed with him, like a promise. Today, it’s the name of the business he runs with Andrey, offering unforgettable nature adventures for more than a decade now.

Yavor and Andrey are like two opposites that fit perfectly together. Together, they’ve created more than a guesthouse—they’ve built a sense of belonging. Meet them once, and you’ll know you’re in the right place.

Yavor is sharp-witted, full of life, and always ready for river mischief. Andrey is observant, kind, and a great storyteller. Together, they are more than hosts—they are the soul of the place. Every chat with them feels like a firelit evening: easy, warm, and genuine. Around them gather active citizens, artists, researchers, cyclists, and families who keep coming back.

Guest favorites include three-day kayaking trips through the limestone canyon of the Yantra River, a rope bridge that could belong in an Indiana Jones movie, and centuries-old rock monasteries hidden in the cliffs. As summer winds down, the evenings get even more magical—peaceful riverside sunsets, clean sand under your feet, and the quiet joy of feeling far away from everything.

This guesthouse in Belyanovo, lovingly restored by Yavor and Andrey, invites rest, laughter, and good company at every turn.

Byala Zvezda Tours isn’t just about kayaking—it’s about community. You see it in the small but powerful things: their Rotary Club membership in Ruse, which supports local children, and the way the local government has started improving roads thanks to the steady flow of visitors Yavor and Andrey have helped inspire.

If you’re looking for a place where nature, adventure, and heart all meet—Belyanovo is waiting. There’s always room by the fire.

A highlight of many Byala Zvezda Tours adventures, this suspension bridge over the Yantra is a path to new perspectives.

 

The limestone walls of the Yantra hold centuries of stories, while the river beneath turns them into a stage for peaceful exploration.

Journey’s end, something new begins

The Danubian steppes aren’t just a place on the map. They’re a kind of silence that stays with you long after you’ve gone. The scent of elderflower, a shared story at dusk, and new friends whose paths now cross your own.

You might not know exactly where Tsarevets, Svishtov, or Belyanovo are. But if one day you follow the northern road without a plan—you just might find them. And you might not want to leave.

And when you do return, you’ll have stories to tell. We promise.

In Yavor and Andrey’s garden, you might meet a hedgehog, hear bats overhead, or simply listen to the hush of evening settling in.

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