Devetaki Plateau: Nine Villages, One Community & Its Brand-New Home

The spectacular makeover of the Devetaki Plateau, in Northern Bulgaria, is a story about the power of community that we have told before but merits an update. People from the nine villages on the Plateau joined efforts to transform a region in decline, with a single ramshackle inn, averaging 15,000 visitors a year into one of TripAdvisor’s best-kept secrets. Today, Devetaki is a vibrant area with more than 50 guesthouses, well-maintained cultural heritage and nature sites, many attractions, and an annual jazz festival. Well over a quarter million people visit the place every year.

Starting this year, the Plateau’s community has its own home, too — a nearly one hundred-year-old converted mill with a changeable history and a happy ending. The Old Mill, located in the village of Karpachevo, came back to life after a year-long restoration with the support of the America for Bulgaria Foundation, Letnitsa Municipality, volunteers from the local community, and architecture students from across Bulgaria.

Soak up the Old Mill’s atmosphere through the photographs below. Or even better: book a holiday on the Devetaki Plateau and see the real thing!

The Old Mill began its life as a watermill in the nearby village of Krushuna, of Krushuna Falls fame, around 1933. It is built from wood and travertine limestone, a now protected natural stone.
After Krushuna acquired a new, modern mill, the Old Mill fell into disuse. Two brothers from Karpachevo bought the building with the intention of moving it to their native village. That was easier said than done. They marked every element of the building, took it apart, and moved it stone by stone, beam by beam, by ox cart to Karpachevo, where they assembled it again over two years, in 1947–1949. Karpachevans never had to travel to grind their grain again.

 

The mill was nationalized by the country’s communist regime shortly after it was moved to Karpachevo. Although it was returned to its rightful owners after 1989, they had no use for it and donated it to the municipality. The building lay empty for years, slowly sinking into ruin.
In 2019, after approval from the municipal council, Letnitsa Municipality leased the Old Mill to the Devetaki Plateau Association for a period of ten years. The association had big plans for the building: it would become an information, exhibition, and event center — yet another one of the Plateau’s many attractions.
Although mainly known for the Devetashka Cave (pictured here) and Krushuna Falls, the Devetaki Plateau is, in fact, rich in natural heritage: dozens of bizarrely shaped caves and rock formations, cool streams, and out-of-the-way places, like the Canyon viewpoint, known only to locals. (So, make sure to ask the locals about it while you are there!)
The architectural plan for the conversion of the Old Mill was developed by two young architects: Antonina Tritakova and Georgi Sabev, of NADA studio (pictured left). The pair first visited the Plateau during a residence for architecture students organized by the Devetaki Plateau Association a few years back. They bought a house in Karpachevo, where they now live.

 

The architects’ goal was an honest restoration — that is why all new building elements and reinforcements were painted white, while the old materials preserved their original colors and shapes.

The Old Mill officially opened its doors in March. Representatives of the America for Bulgaria Foundation and Letnitsa Municipality, local community members, and many guests attended the opening ceremony. Pictured here: Lenko Lenkov, ABF program director, Business Enabling Environment; Iva Taralezhkova, of the Devetaki Plateau Association; Nancy Schiller, ABF president and CEO; and Dr. Krasimir Dzhonev, mayor of Letnitsa Municipality.
In addition to offering tourist information about the region, the Old Mill hosts entrepreneurship courses with a focus on rural tourism, culinary and artistic demonstrations, concerts, readings, and exhibitions among others.
Iva Taralezhkova is the main driving force behind the association’s activities and positive changes in the region over the past 15 years. While she is happy that the Devetaki Plateau region supports livelihoods again, she wishes to see the return of children’s laughter in the area. She would be celebrating the day Karpachevo announces the birth of the tenth local child. For now, Number 4 is on the way.

Photos by Dobrin Kashavelov, Simeon Simeonov, Todor Todorov and Ivo Bossev

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